When they were nursery-age, my daughters’ favourite children’s book was Ann Likes Red, a charming tale that always prompted a discussion about colours. “I do not like red,” I’d say, with a certitude that has lasted for decades, and persists. That thing where you just feel wrong in a colour? That’s me.
Which makes the current season rather challenging. Whatever your politics, football team or natural colour predilections, you’ll be hard pushed to avoid red. Shop windows are full of it, from Cos to Zara to M&S, with the latter reporting a 294 per cent increase in searches for “red jackets” last week, and a 188 per cent increase in searches for “red top”.
What did Meryl Streep wear to the New York premiere of The Devil Wears Prada 2? A red Givenchy cape. What did Alexandra Shulman, a former Vogue editor, wear to marry her long-time partner at Chelsea Town Hall? A red cardigan and matching red bag. What has Royal Ascot revealed as its inaugural “colour of the year” for Ladies’ Day? Red – specifically, tomato red, a juicy, optimistic hue that conjures warm Mediterranean summers.
Which is lovely if you’re in Bellagio, but a different prospect in Berkshire. How, then, to make the colour work for you? For while it’s not quite a case of going head-to-toe in red this summer, it’s definitely a case of “red, or woefully out of fashion”.
Social media users will be familiar with “tomato girl summer”, that bold-print, high-definition micro-trend that saw influencers swinging their best picnic baskets while looking winsome in as much red as they could muster.
Strip away the girlish posturing, however, and this vibrant hue feels much more wearable. We’re now in the era of the tomato woman summer, if you will: a blessedly more grown-up take.
Here’s an etiquette guide to wearing the hue on any number of occasions – hopefully, without seeing red.
How do I pick the best red for my skin tone?
As anyone who has despairingly tried on a mountain of red clothes will attest, not all reds are created equal. Some can drain you: others can overwhelm. With such a surfeit of red in the shops this season, where to begin in choosing?
According to Jules Standish, a colour expert, “autumn” skin tones (those with warm yellow undertones) are best suited to earthy brick reds and rusts, while “spring” skin tones (warm yellow undertones that generally burn first, have freckles or high cheek colour) should go for vibrant poppy, coral and tomato hues.
Winter skin tones (cool blue undertones) are best matched with darker crimson and holly berry shades, while summer skins (light with a cool blue base) should stick to raspberry or pastel rose iterations. “Although there is a shade that’s said to suit all skin tones, and that’s true red, a primary red that sits in the middle of cool and warm,” she counsels.
Even the best colour advice can seem abstract until you actually try an item on. Standish suggests standing in the best natural light you can find (some changing rooms have a specific light setting for this), choosing a red top and holding it up against your face. “The shade should make your complexion look even and the whites of your eyes look clear. If it makes your skin look blotchy or washed out, or highlights dark under-eye shadows, it’s not for you.”
Will I look like Virgin cabin crew?
It’s a valid concern. Of all the colours in the spectrum, red is surely the most daunting to wear head-to-toe. Happily, there’s a solution for that: don’t. The secret lies in downplaying its impact with some judiciously chosen muted shades. “Soften the intensity with blush pink, camel, taupe, or baby blue,” suggests Oonagh Brennan, Red’s fashion director,. “You can also play with tonal contrasts and texture, pairing deeper shades like burgundy with vivid scarlet, or offsetting a matte leather jacket with a fluid silk skirt.”
Those new to red might like to start by dipping their toes in the water via a pop of colour – a glimpse of red sock under a pair of jeans, or a neckerchief tied over a jacket. “Accessories are a good way to try out the trend,” agrees Brennan. “A red bag delivers impact without overwhelming, as does a silk scarf threaded through belt loops. Glossy red flip-flops are also poised to become the defining shoe of summer, worn with everything from dresses to suits.”
Add a pop of red...
Red at a wedding: is it too ‘scarlet woman’?
We are already well-versed in the notion that white is an absolute no-no at weddings: upstaging, or even twinning with, the bride is never a good look. Most of us would also avoid wearing black; an elegant hue, but too funereal for a day of merriment in which two people pledge their undying love for each other while dancing badly to Barry White. With two of our most favoured neutrals on the no-fly list, must we also add red? The short answer is “no”.
Granted, red does draw the eye, but instead of eschewing it, consider what the eye is being drawn to. A red dress revealing reams of pulchritudinous cleavage would be decidedly ill-advised, while a red slip dress might seem a little too “cocktail” for comfort. But it would be acceptable to wear a red maxi skirt, a red skirt suit or a red blouse worn with a skirt or trousers in a more neutral hue.
Try these...
Is red on holiday ever a good idea?
If you’re the sort of woman whose skin tone predisposes her to developing a “tomato tan” (in the sense that you always go red before you turn golden), then red should be approached with caution. No matter how fetching your red bikini, it will look considerably less so if your chest and stomach have been burnt to a similar hue.
Red looks especially wonderful on dark skin (it’s no accident that retailers frequently choose black models when photographing their red swimsuits and dresses), but paradoxically, it can work well on very pale skin, too. Don’t rule it out. As Daniel Spencer, Ascot’s creative director, notes: “That bright orangey-red of a ripe tomato creates an instant feeling of summer joy.”
Pieces to pack in your suitcase...
Linen shirt and shorts set, £205, With Nothing Underneath
What about wearing red to work?
The psychological effects of red are well known, the theory being that wearing a bold primary hue can increase boldness and confidence in the wearer. Which can make red a good choice on those days where you need to present strong leadership. If a red trouser suit is too all-in, temper red trousers with a pale blue shirt, or a red blazer with neutral trousers. “A shot of crimson by its very nature draws attention,” says Alice Olins, editor in chief of The Allbright, a digital magazine that supports female entrepreneurship. “Punch and restraint are best delivered together. When I choose red in the morning, whether a pair of red Adidas Firebird track pants or heels, it requires a little self-steel. There will be attention, but taking a fashion risk sets me up for a day of courage, something I know will feed me professionally.”
Ready for red in the office...
Which red items should I invest in?
No one wants to spend money on something as ephemeral as a faddish micro-trend. So which red items should you be buying with longevity in mind, and how to avoid blush-filled regrets that will end up in the charity shop?
When buying, try not to think of red as a trend. While it might be particularly fashionable this season, it’s also a perennial: just ask Valentino. The key to choosing items with staying power doesn’t lie in the hue itself, but in the style of item. Capri pants being in this season, don’t buy red capri pants: likewise, a red mini.
Provided you stick with classic styles, a red bag or shoe will last you decades (try to buy leather: faux rarely lasts), as will a simple red shift dress – a foundation garment in any tomato woman’s wardrobe.